Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

The Annapurna Circuit has been at the back of my mind since our first and last trip to Nepal in 2007, and the pull of the great Himalayan massif has steadily strengthened.

My Mom's great travel dream, and one I am certain would have been realised given more time, the Annapurna Circuit is a trek in the Gandaki Province of Nepal that traverses Thorong-la Pass. Thorong-la Pass connects the villages of Manang and Muktinath.

At 5,416 meters, it is better known as being the highest pass in the world.

When we decided to return to Nepal in 2022, we opted for a December Annapurna Circuit Trek to accommodate our work and social commitments. Call us brave or foolish - December is mid-winter in Nepal and sits squarely in the off season for tourists. We also decided on an expedited trek - the AC trek traditionally starts in Besisahar, but the relatively recent construction of a road allows trekkers to drive that first section of the route. Instead of the Besisahar start (760m), we opted for the Manang start (3,540m).

Knowing we'd have to contend with icy cold weather, possible snow closures over Thorong-la Pass and high altitude-related risks, we packed our warmest thermals and plenty of snacks (and a few other essentials) before heading from South Africa to cooler climates.

Day 1: Jhb → Kathmandu

Day 2: Kathmandu (1,400m) → Dharaphani (1,960m)

Day 3: Dharaphani (1,960m) → Manang (3,540m)

Day 4: Manang acclimatisation day

Day 5: Manang (3,540m) → Tilicho Base Camp (4,140m)

Day 6: Tilicho Base Camp (4,140m) → Tilicho Lake (4,919m) -> Siri Kharka (4,140m)

Day 7: Siri Kharka (4,140m) → Churi Ledar (4,206m)

Day 8: Churi Ledar (4,206m) → Thorong High Camp (4,800m)

Day 9: Thorong High Camp (4,800m) → Muktinath (3,700m)

Day 10: Muktinath (3,700m) → Tatopani (1,100m)

Day 11 - 16: Tatopani (1,100m) → Pokhara (822m)